Since running the world dry of press in bearings, Subaru decided to change gears and go to a hub style bolt in bearing to make all of our lives just a bit easier. Many things can take out a bearing like water intrusion, loss of lubricant, an impact shifting the races, or just wear and tear over time. If you start hearing a low roar or hum coming from a wheel, you may in fact have a bearing going bad or a bad tire.
Some wheels bearings will have enough play that following these directions will expose the failure. Some may never exhibit this issue and will just be noisy at high speeds. How can you tell whether you have a hub bearing assembly or a press in bearing style?
You can check your local parts store, website or Subaru parts catalog. You will find front bolt in bearings on a STi but the rears are still press in. Installation time will be around an hour for those with quick hands, the proper tools and a bit of luck. For many others this can be a hour plus job, how well the bolts and parts will separate or stay seized together which can take many hours with the combination of luck and rust.
You will need your 12, 14, 17 and 19mm sockets will help get this job going. Gearwrench ratcheting wrenches. Helping you hold those bolts still, so you can undo the struts. This is needed to pop that axle nut off. Having these wrenches have saved me from many headaches. I have been using these Powerbuilt sockets for over 5 years and they are still going strong today. Hammer s. Proto antivibe hammer is my choice hammer. Atd deadblow hammer set. Any deadblow hammers can help you finish the job.
Keeping the rotor surface safe from damage. Torque wrench.Specifically, the top bolt of the two bolts that hold the steering knuckle to the strut. I got the nuts off the other end of each bolt with a breaker bar no problem. I set a jack under the steering knuckle and raised it a bit to relieve any load on the bolts, and with some PB blaster and a hammer, I got the bottom bolt out. But this top bolt just will not budge.
The only thing I can think to do now is to get a torch and try to heat up the metal around the bolt head to maybe loosen it up some. If you have a jack under it I think you are creating pressure against that bolt. Enough heat applied to the knuckle will also probably loosen the bolt. Do you think a small butane torch like the one linked below would put enough heat on the area around the bolt head to get it loose?
Release the jack under the knuckle. It is adding pressure to the joint. If that effort totally fails I suggest that you remove the knuckle and strut assemly and work on it on a bench where you can cut the bolt head off and pry the strut off the knuckle, install the knuckle in a good vice and heat the knuckle along the bolt hole while tapping alternately from side to side. Try hitting the threaded end of the bolt sideways in every direction you can.
Count to 50 in each direction. Keep this up for an hour. Easy for me to say. You want a propane torch with a manual control valve so you can light the torch, and position it where the flame heats up the threaded end of the bolt and walk away and do something else.
Then when the bolt cools back down it should break the bond between the bolt and the steering knuckle. Bought a propane torch. I think I can see the splines Nevada mentions on the other bolt that has already been driven out a bit. I think heat and some patience will probably do the job. After heating the bolt, you might have to knock on it both ways, from the top and finally from the bottom.
That Knuckle does look like aluminum. Separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle next time.December 13th, Ball joint removal?
Replacing the Struts this past weekend the Haynes manual says you must detach the lower control arm ball joint in order to get the Strut assembly out, however after working on the drivers' side first I discovered afterwards that is not necessary.
Now I can't get the nut off, or tightened back on. It appears that when Chrysler did the recall several years back to replace the OE lower Ball joints What would cause that stem to rotate like that? I guess I've never replaced a worn balljoint before so I'm not sure. I understand what they do and why they could go bad, but not sure about this.
DIY: Subaru front wheel bearing assembly install! Taking it one bolt at a time.
I skipped loosening the ball joint on the passenger side and the strut came out and went back in peace of cake Any suggestions or links that do give decent instruction are appreciated. I've searche Youtube and LostKJ but not found anything on those sights for help. Re: Ball joint removal? The nut isn't necessarily cross threaded. What happens is that the threaded part of the ball joint is drawing a conical wedge down into the control arm, with a ball the ball joint captive in a fixture.
It's fairly common with this type of joint. The solution is normally one or more of the following 1. Air tools. Normally this will do it. Put a jack under the control arm or use a pry bar to somehow increase pressure on the taper, which will increase the friction there.
Hopefully loading the taper increases the friction to where the nut will spin first. Chem spray to decrease nut friction. Other than that I don't know. I am unfamiliar with the KJ but I suspect yuo could slowly, carefully drive it to a mechanic or have it towed if you are unable to get it done at home. Thanks for the suggestions.
I don't think the ball joint that's currently on the KJ is bad You've given me some good ideas to try. I just need to get the nut snugged back up on the threads and keep the lower control arm from falling off. I have an air gun so perhaps I'm in luck Thx for the ideas!! Put the weight of the vehicle on the control arm to reseat the ball joint wedge.
Tap on the area that the wedge-bolt goes into. Tighten the nut to lock the bolt then take the nut off. Do not hit the bolt to remove it. Use a tie rod separator. Last edited by oldcancer; December 13th, at December 14th, Thanks again all. June 30th, A pry bar between the knuckle and the housing will cause the binding force needed.I have the nut off, and have the inner end of the axle disconnected from the transmission, but I can't get the outer end out of the splines in the hub.
I've tried beating it out, and I have tried a 3-jaw puller, which resulted in breaking the puller Harbor Freight Dump some PB Blaster or similar product in there and let it sit. Might take a bit of a bigger hammer to get moving.
I hate to ask if you knew to tighten the 3-jaw then hammer like a lunatic on the screw. Then, when the screw loosened, to tighten and hammer some more. P'Blaster has been on it several hours, but because the hub is still on the car it's not quite in a position to soak. I'm considering bringing the knuckle inside because I already have the strut loose and all I'd need to do was disconnect the ABS sensor and one end of the ball joint or the other.
I'm a bit afraid I'll need a drill and a tap to get the pinch bolt out I'll have to see about Kroil. I've seen it but never used it. I also have some "Berkebile" I think, was in the car when I bought it from my father in law.
Never heard of hammering on the screw of the puller. That would at least give me something stable enough to let me use both hands on the hammer. Well that sucks. I just replace the front axle on my '02 and it only took a couple smacks with the 2lb hammer. I would definitely be hesitant pulling the pinch bolt. Maybe it's easier to leave the pinch and pull the ball-joint out of the control arm which I ended up doing anyway.
If I recall correctly; I braced the control arm and used a small jack on a mostly loosened castle nut to pop the ball joint out. The horrid freight ball-joint popper tool undoes the bottom ball joint connection quite nicely, worth it to avoid touching the pinch bolt.
I had a similar situation 2 years ago. It's a 96 Outback wagon. When I did the left axle, the axle came out of the hub easily by hand. But the right side wouldn't. With an extension pipe added to the wrench, I almost broke the 3-jaw puller rented from Adv Auto but I stopped in time. I then removed the axle together with the hub from the car. Placing the axle vertically on the floor while soaking the splines with PB Blaster all night.
But not a drop of the liquid seemed to get into the splines next morning.Forum Rules. Remember Me? Advanced Search. Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 10 of Add Thread to del. Can't remove ball joint, '89 Subaru GL Hatch Trying to remove ball joint from an '89 Suby GL hatch, won't come loose from either the top or the bottom. The ball joint is 'upside down', that is, the ball part is mounted in the steering knuckle and the stem bolt is in the lower control arm.
I can't get anything in to pry open the steering knuckle because the lower control arm, brake line and sway bar are in the way. So I figured I'd press the stem out, but that doesn't work either. I tried heating the bushing on the control arm but that didn't help. A ball joint seperator was no help either. I put so much pressure on the press the bottom of the bolt mushroomed out a little. Any ideas? BlackHawk That is exactly the time you want to take that air hammer and put it right on the end of the bolt you are tightening to press out the stem after you have heated up the bushing that the stem is in.
I'm thinking an 8 lb or as big as you can get sledge hammer resting on the "back side" of the control arm. You may have to shorten the handle of the sledge. Handles are cheap.
Having a helper hold the sledge or whatever weight you can fit in there would be really helpful. Another way you might be able to get some weight on that bushing is by having a helper stand a heavy bar on the back side of the control arm. Hopefully, with all that going on, you won't break your press. As a last resort, you can cut that sucker off with a torch and do the stem removal on a bench vise with a sledge hammer.
BTW, this is mostly speculation as I haven't done what we're talking about here. I'm just using general mechanical common sense. Also drench the area with penetrant beforehand. Share Share this post on Digg Del.
Marsh Monster. Arm from the frame CL off! Pickle fork didn't do sh! See the pics in the like under Legacy and Impreza. That's what I used Pitman arm remover? Here's a couple of photos of how I take them out this is a 4X4 Chevy. Have you tried the trick with two hammers, where you hit the arm holding the ball joint on the left and right sides simultaneously, pretty hard, while the ball joint puller pusher? Whack, whack, tighten the puller a bit, whack, whack, tighten some more, and eventually the ball joint comes out joint pops out, probably with a bang.
This was the only thing that worked for me with stuck ball joints, and I've read of people doing this with the hammers alone. Mike Romain.
You need to cut the steering both ways on some vehicles so you can get a wrench on the parts, it is not unusual.User Name Remember Me? Garage Garage Garages Help. I have noticed a noise in the front end that was like a reciprocating scraping. The noise changes when the right front goes over a camber change or is loaded. And I believe the noise is due to a suspension component that is actually loose, because I can feel a little instability when braking, especially.
So this made me think it was probably a bad bearing so I replaced both front hubs. This didn't fix the problem, so I replaced the ball joints and bushings on both control arms and then aligned the front end. The noise continues. Sometimes it's a quiet scraping and others more of a thumping, but it's never severe. The only thing I can think of is a problem with the shock or top hat, or problem with brakes? Anyone else have a similar experience?
Any advice would be appreciated. Opie's Garage Totalled Track Car. This bulletin provides a service procedure to address a small number of customer concerns regarding a sound coming from the engine compartment when going over bumps at low speed.
The sound is a result of foreign material trapped between the attachment surfaces of both stays and the toe board bracket and strut tower. The stays are the braces between the firewall and both strut towers. The strut mount s would be the next component to investigate. Use a mild solvent on a clean shop cloth and allow to thoroughly dry before reassembly. Torque all of the new flange nuts and bolts to 16 Nm Does it happen when turning? Do you have a video by chance? Have you started with the simple?Last Updated: April 2, References Approved.
This article was co-authored by Mike Parra.
Subaru Forester Ball Joint Replacement (Front) at your home or office.
Mike Parra is a Master Mechanic in Arizona. This article has been viewedtimes. The ball joints allow the suspension of your vehicle to move up and down, while at the same time allow the wheels to turn left and right.
If it tightens up, the steering will bind so you can have a stiff spot as you turn the steering wheel. There may be a binding or squeaking sound in addition to the stiff spot.
Fortunately, you can quickly and easily check your ball joints for excessive wear before you experience severe steering or suspension problems. Every day at wikiHow, we work hard to give you access to instructions and information that will help you live a better life, whether it's keeping you safer, healthier, or improving your well-being.
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Please consider making a contribution to wikiHow today. To check the ball joints in a vehicle with short long arm suspension, look under the car to see if you can find a wear indicator on the bottom of the steering knuckle. If the fitting is protruding, the ball joints should be fine. If the movement is beyond specifications, replace the ball joint. For tips from our mechanic reviewer on how to check the ball joints in a vehicle with McPherson strut suspension, keep reading!
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